Tsalka region is one of the most improbable of Georgia. At just 70km from Tbilisi, on the volcanic highlands of the Lesser Caucasus, Tsalka is nonetheless one of the most isolated countries.
In Soviet times, was one of the most prosperous agricultural regions of the USSR. His potatoes were among the most famous of the Union. But with the disintegration of Georgian territory in the early 1990s, years of absence from the state of rule by warlords and mafia, the region found itself completely isolated.
On the high plateau between 1500 and 2700 meters of altitude, the region saw its roads quickly become peat. Moreover, it is one of the country that has experienced the greatest demographic changes. The region was inhabited before the collapse of the country, a majority of Greeks and a minority Armenians.
impoverished and tempted by the open borders of Greece to all members of its diaspora, the Greeks are almost all gone, leaving town and abandoned villages. Armenians have found themselves in the majority. Finally, late 1990s until 2005, Georgians victims of environmental disasters have been relocated here.
Mystery of potatoes
One Sunday in February, market day in Tsalka, late afternoon. We leave Tbilisi and continue our road in a BMW registered Tbilisi, to the remote mountain town. The course Tbilissiens have one thing in mind: buy potatoes half the price in the capital. After all, we're in heaven this starchy, where he is the best in the entire region and perhaps beyond. As and when we ask indigenous, doubt takes hold of us. Whether it's some way, often women apparently Greek or Armenian as they do not include Georgian, gas station attendants or keeper of the only shop in the main street, or Adjars Svanes, yet few people crossed on the road, obviously farmers themselves probably potato growers, the reaction is the same.
"Where can I buy potatoes?" leads to a hasty reply, reluctant and unnatural: "No, no" or "Do not know" or simply a sign of the hand indicating the non-categorical, which contrasts with the sympathy of the first.
In the land of potatoes, no way to buy one, even at the price of gold.
We leave empty-handed, and we say that these people, far from unaware of where to buy potatoes, refused to say. Perhaps, were afraid. About ten kilometers after have begun the descent of the plateau, we passed a broken-down truck that we had already seen one way. Chock full of bags of potatoes to 60 pounds. We ask drivers to sell us one. No problem, it makes them a little spending money. Half-price markets of Tbilisi. We ask them where they are generated. "A Tsalka, by Jove, where else?"
One explanation seems possible. The market works like this: wholesalers buy potatoes at low prices to farmers or to smaller vendors Tsalka for markets in Tbilisi, and prohibit the sale of indigenous particular. In short, a capitalist version kolkhoz system that existed here during the Soviet era.
descended into the valley, I talk about this story. And hear about someone who, Mingrelia, tried a few years ago to mount a sale of herbs that grew in particular. And that the company could not be done because the local mafia prohibited from selling to anyone but her. A
Tsalka, the collapse of the Soviet Union has changed a lot of data in demographics, as regards the state of infrastructure. But the economics of ancient times, he seems to have perseverance. Are they the same, the former directors of collective farms, which have always control over the region?
Photos: Nicolas Landru
